Yutaka Nakajima is a skilled, humble craftsman with an eye for simple beauty, making hard-to-find wines in the basement of his house in Nagano.
His PetNat is made with Kyoho, and it does not sit still. It starts tropical, with lychee, melon and kombucha, then shifts once the bubbles subside; the back label tells you to drink it at room temperature, so take the hint. From there it goes savoury: fermented carrot, toffee candy, wax, grapefruit, fizzy lemon sweets. One of the most interesting things we have tasted, and it will stretch what you think wine can taste like.