Today, once again, I experienced something I hope to understand in a few weeks 2023 is a natural wine crafted by Anders Frederik Steen, in the Ardeche region in France. This white wine is made with Gewürztraminer grapes.
ONE PER ORDER
Anders Frederik Steen and Anne Bruun Blauert work out of Valvignères in the Ardèche, and their motto is "Nothing added. Nothing taken away." No wine is ever made twice, which is why the names keep changing, each one taken from a song lyric or a line of poetry. Much of the fruit comes from Jocelyne and Gérald Oustric at Domaine du Mazel and from the Bannwarth family in Alsace, alongside their own vines at Valgrand. Long slow pressings on an old press, and a long élevage in old wood with no topping up, are the house signature. No sulphur goes in, and neither does anything else.
The Gewürztraminer comes from the Bannwarth family at Obermorschwihr in Alsace. Anders and Anne describe it themselves:
“After a few years with wines made in Alsace in a more oxidative style, we have this year decided to bottle two younger wines. Still non ouillé, no topping up of the barrels, but only two years of élevage. Therefore, wines that holds oxidative characters, but without being fulling oxidative as we have seen in previous years.
This wine is a pure version of Gewürztraminer, with a deep and rich flavors profile, that offers many layers. Starting with an exotic-like acidity, then the saltiness and oxidative notes from the time in the barrels and then finally in the aftertaste we find the rich and very aromatic Gewürztraminer that at the time of harvest had a beautiful noble rot.
We made a direct press of the grapes same day as we harvested them to be able to extract as much of these flavours as possible, we pressed slowly, but without letting the grapes macerate in the pressoir. Once all the juice had left the pressoir, we left it a few days to start the fermentation in open air casks to take on a little oxidation. From here the juice went into fiberglass tank to ferment over winter. This first fermentation has in that way, taken place outside. After a soutirage in the spring of 2024, the wine went into the cellar where it within the following half year finished its fermentation and stayed another two years in old barrels-without topping up. This gave the wine the time to take on a little oxidation, not a lot, just a little hint. And most important, not enough to disturb the fragile expression of the acidity and at the same time tame the exotic aromatic profile of Gewürztraminer. The balance is important in wine, but equally important is it for us to give all the small discrete flavors space. We experience with this a more classical expression than most other wines we recently have made in Alsace.”
Bottled at 14% alcohol. The words above are their own, from the 2026 release notes, and we have not yet tried this vintage ourselves.